As a skin doctor specialising in skin of colour, I often find myself addressing a common concern that many patients share: hyperpigmentation. Whether it's those stubborn dark spots that refuse to fade or an uneven skin tone that no amount of concealer can cover, hyperpigmentation can be both frustrating and confusing. But fear not, we're about to dive into the depths of this skin condition, unraveling its mysteries and, more importantly, how to tackle it head-on.
What Exactly is Hyperpigmentation?
To put it simply, hyperpigmentation is the darkening of an area of the skin caused by an increase in melanin, the pigment responsible for our skin's colour. This might sound harmless—and in many cases, it is—but when you’ve got more melanin to begin with, as is the case with skin of colour, hyperpigmentation can become a persistent and sometimes emotionally taxing issue.
The Many Faces of Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation isn’t a one-size-fits-all condition; as it comes in various forms, each with its own triggers and characteristics. The main sources of distress I see in clinic are:
1. Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): This is the unruly guest that shows up after your skin has been through some trauma—be it acne, eczema, or even an insect bite. Think of PIH as your skin's way of remembering the rough patch it went through, leaving a dark reminder in its wake. The good news? It's usually temporary. The bad news? Temporary could mean weeks, months, or even years.
2. Melasma: Melasma is like that guest who overstays their welcome. This form of hyperpigmentation is often linked to hormonal changes (hello, pregnancy mask!) and sun exposure. It typically appears as large, patchy areas of dark skin, often on the face. It’s more common in women and, once it shows up, it can be notoriously difficult to get rid of.
3. Sun-Induced Hyperpigmentation: We all love a good sunny day, but UV rays can be a real villain when it comes to your skin. Prolonged sun exposure can cause your skin to produce excess melanin as a defense mechanism, leading to dark spots, or what we like to call sunspots or their medical name solar lentigos. In those with skin of colour, these spots can be more pronounced and linger longer.
Why Skin of Colour is Prone to Hyperpigmentation
Melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour, comes in two types: eumelanin (brown/black pigment) and phaeomelanin (red/yellow pigment). Skin of colour contains more eumelanin, which, while providing some natural protection against UV damage (like a built-in sunscreen - albeit weak), also means that when the skin is injured or irritated, it’s more prone to producing excess melanin as a part of the healing process. The result? Dark spots, uneven skin tone, and that ever-pesky hyperpigmentation.
How to Treat and Prevent Hyperpigmentation
Now, onto the million-pound question: How do you get rid of hyperpigmentation, or better yet, prevent it from happening in the first place? Many have gotten rich trying to address this, but I'll give you my summary.
1.Sun Protection is Non-Negotiable
- This is the single most important step to tackling hyperpigmentation. It might seem obvious, but I can’t stress enough how crucial it is to wear sunscreen—every single day. Yes, even on cloudy days, and yes, even if you think your melanin-rich skin doesn’t burn easily. Sunscreen helps prevent the worsening of existing hyperpigmentation and wards off the formation of new hyperpigmentation. When buying sunscreen, look for a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30, and don’t forget to reapply every couple of hours if you’re out and about. I will go into sunscreen in depth in another post.
2. Be Gentle with Your Skin
- Avoid harsh scrubs and skincare products that can irritate your skin, as this can exacerbate hyperpigmentation. That means you may need to get off Tik Tok!! Not every trending ingredient is right for you - and that includes St Ives scrub and kojic acid! Instead, opt for gentle exfoliants like glycolic acid or lactic acid, which help to gradually fade dark spots without causing trauma to your skin.
3. Incorporate Brightening Ingredients
- Ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and licorice extract are your best friends when it comes to brightening dark spots. They work by inhibiting melanin production and promoting an even skin tone. Prescription-strength treatments like hydroquinone or retinoids can also be effective, but they should be used under the guidance of a appropriately qualified doctor—especially one experienced in skin of colour.
4. Treat the Root Cause
- If your hyperpigmentation is due to acne or another underlying skin condition, it’s important to treat that first. This might involve a tailored skincare routine, prescription medications, or in-office treatments like chemical peels or laser therapy.
5. Patience is Key
- Here’s the part no one likes to hear: hyperpigmentation doesn’t fade overnight. It’s a gradual process, and consistency in your skincare routine is essential. But rest assured, with the right approach, you can achieve a more even, radiant complexion.
When to See a Doctor
While over-the-counter treatments can be effective for mild hyperpigmentation, there are times when it’s best to consult a specialist skin Doctor—like me!
If your hyperpigmentation is widespread, persistent, or if you’re unsure about the best treatment approach, a professional evaluation can help. We can assess your skin, identify the cause of your hyperpigmentation, and create a customised treatment plan that’s safe and effective for your unique skin type.
Embrace the Journey
Living with hyperpigmentation, especially on skin of colour, can be challenging. But remember, your skin tells a story—one of resilience, healing, and beauty. Embrace the journey to clearer, more even-toned skin, and don’t hesitate to seek help when you need it. After all, your skin is worth it!
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Ready to take control of your hyperpigmentation? Schedule a consultation today and let’s work together to achieve the healthy, glowing skin you deserve.
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